around Crete in 50 days - Day 17 from Pirgos to Vagionia
Number of steps 24302
Burned calories 949,4
Distance 18,4 km
Walking hours 3h 31'
Pulse at arrival 81
Weather: Cold in the morning but warmer in the afternoon. No wind Average 21C
I woke up at 07.30 and had a sandwich for breakfast. Cloudy, cold but
no wind. Some orange juice, my voltaren (foot is still
not ok) and I left Pirgos at 09.10 Only a few nice houses. Very quiet
in the morning. The normal village noise, barking dogs,
roosters, sheep, chickens and "tricycles". I am walking on
the old road, less cars. Very beautiful church, newly built. It is
only 15C, no sun. Did not see any stray dogs in Pirgos. Only some cats.
But there are many barrel dogs ! Mostly well fed.
I slow down my tempo.. painful foot... Lots of farming here, between
Pirgos and Harakas. Three eagles are circling over the
olive fields, gliding towards each other, over and over again ! Nice
performance. Sky is getting blue and now there is a bit
09.50 and I am entering Harakas. The medical center is
closed... Here it is only 50 km from Heraklion, but I
decide to walk on and hope for the best... Difficult decision but necessary
if I want to succeed my walk in 50 days.. So much
is organized.. .I can not call everybody to cancel or delay my overnight
stays.. This is a very problematic moment... I walk on
and don't give up... The view on the Ida mountain, the evergreen valley
and those eagles.. .No way to stop ! Following the road
to Sternes now. Nothing else than singing birds, olive yards and yellow
clover, behind it, the Asterousia Mountains.
Agia Fotia, only a few houses. Lots of grape yards, very well maintained.
I reach Panagia village at 11.20 Many old people
in very small houses. They seem to be happy and live pretty good. Lots
of field tractors show the farmer life in this village.
As I leave, I don't see any children in the school.. It's deserted.
11.50 arriving in Dionysi. Lots of barrel dogs. No food
and no water, but they all look in good condition. Some people live very
poor here. Panagia ! Getting very warm now (26C). Everywhere men
working in the fields.
12.25 I am in Stavyies. Asterousia on the left
and the majestic Ida on the right. I have my "elleniko sketto" in
the local cafenion and take the dirt road to Vagionia.. Still lots of
pain.. The dirt road brings me quicker to Vagionia where I need, for
sure, a long rest. The fields are gorgeous. Can't describe my feelings
(not the pain.) ! Don't know where to look first. I am enjoying the working
bees, collecting their daily honey from the almonds'
blossom. Great aroma ! Difficult to leave this place...
at the backyard of Vagionia. The only "hotel" is full !
Many foreigners rent a room on a monthly base. They all work in the fields
or building business.. I found a taxi and drove to
Agia Deka, where I found only one room free.. I have to take
it, but it doesn't satisfy me.. No doctor around...
Taxi driver was very helpful and friendly.. He will come to pick me up
the next day and drive me back to Vagionia for my
walk to Lendas.. I eat an omelette and drink a local wine to forget
the pain. I am slowly slowly climbing out of the black
hole I was in for two days now.. My foot is still not ok, but I feel
it is changing in the good direction..
Agioi Deka is an
old village, some places are dirty. Now and then I see young ones in "trendy" cafes,
drinking their "frappe". Everywhere
dust and abandoned buildings. No fun to stay here, but apart from Mires
(further away) the only solution. I switch the
button and go to sleep.. Lots of noise... Another voltaren will make
me a bit sleepy.. I am sad, but still optimistic for tomorrow.