Walk around Crete in 50 days - Day 26 from Selia to
Distance 26,7 km
Burned calories 1415
Hours walk 05h15
Pulse at arrival 97
Weather: Extremely sunny and warm. average 25C At the end cloudy.
Woke up at 07.00 and had breakfast with Barbara and her dog "bonny".
He got his "sticky" from me and we had some toast with home made marmalade
from Brigitte. It is 07.45 now, no wind, flat sea and 20C. Will be hot
today..the view from "bab’s" terrace is fantastic and very relaxing.
I am still enjoying the "treatment" from yesterday.
I leave Sellia at 08.15 and choose the coast path, going from Sellia
to Souda Bay (not Souda in the North-West near Ghania, but the Souda
of Plakias). It is quiet in Sellia. some people are gathering at the "platia".
It is still early and they don’t say so much..The feeling in my
left foot is the same as yesterday, not 100 %. When will this be finished..?
I can’t stop for a couple of days to rest !
Towards Souda it is all-downhill and I am the witness of surprising
panoramas. Behind each corner of the winding road there is something
else that amazes me.
09.00 I am at Souda bay and call Mr Vranaki from Flisvos apts. Everything
is still ok, they are expecting me. 26C now and if I wish I can jump,
even naked, in the crystal clear water of "my Lybian Lady", nobody would
see me ! What a fab place..! At the end of the bay, three fishermen are
trying to have a good "catch" for today (Saturday).
09.10 Walking along the beach of Souda now, nobody around..Pamelaki,
where are you ? At this time of the day, and the year, the beach is deserted.
It can compete with the Caribbean, so nice !
09.30 Crossing the river and going up to the "monopati"
10.00 on the path now and filled my bottle with the crystal water of
the river. 27C, I will need to drink a lot today. Walking on top of the
cliffs now about 20 m above sea level. Don’t have words to describe
the beauty of this area. One amazing bay after another.
10.30 Meter after meter I am climbing the very steep dirt road now,
for about 500 m. I am all by myself and did not see anybody since I left
Souda bay. Crete is nice ! I am a lucky man, to live here. On my right
a real forest of Pinus Brutus (pine tree). On my left the "blue waters".
10.50 Passing a shepherd fence. The road is closed (?) and I have to
climb over the fence (I will not cut the rusty wires, holding the fence
11.10 I spot the first "human" since Souda bay at the "Akropolis" apts.
It’s an eagle’s nest, just on a rock on top of a cliff. Waw
! Talking about a place with a view..endless. I manage to take a small
concrete road to go down to the beach and continue along the seaside.
Well, folks, that’s it ! I rest for 30’ and eat an almond
and honey bar.. The beach has no name, to my knowledge, and I call it "Ivanaki" beach.
Coming back here, more than once ! Leaving ‘my bay" at 11.40, the
only thing I hear is the ever pushing sea and the noise of my steps in
the rolling stones
12.00 Away from the seaside now at a very small and cute fishermen’s
harbor, to join the dirt road again. At the and of a very steep climb,
turn left to join the road again which I left (at
"Akropolis) to go to Ivanaki beach . My heart is beating fast I am very excited
about this walk. The weather is changing.. More clouds and wind. My Lybian Lady
is protesting a bit.
12.15 Arriving at Korakas and welcomed by 4 barrel dogs..Only "rooms
to let" here, but very quiet. I spot 2 tourists.
12.30 Arriving at Akrotiri Kastello. I drink a "Mythos" (reminds me
the god) and continue on the "monopati", behind the taverna "Nikos and
Anna", very friendly people. If they don’t tell you where the path
is, you don’t find it ! No sign.
Leaving them at 13.00. The "empty god Mythos" staring at me..I am still
carrying the extra 1,5 kg heavy, but beautiful crystal stone, I found
on Ivanaki beach. It will, later on, decorate my desk at the office.
13.20 Arriving at another beach, I spot two nudists. Nothing special..
13.45 End of the beach walk and road closed (fenced) No way to cut or
even to climb over. Turn back and take another dirt road (at a junction)..
I focus Frangokastello (which I don’t see yet) and walk on.
14.10 I see the castle about 1,5 hour away from where I am.. Lucky that
I changed shoes in Spili. I put my Lowa’s instead of the Trezetta’s
(they will serve me again as from Chania). The snow is melting fast on
top of the White Mountains, I can see.
14.25 End of the dirt road, asphalt now and 27C. On the road, in front
of a petrol station, I spot three donkeys, free, no rope on the legs,
and in good condition. They are eating the scrubs, staying carefully
away from the road.
15.20 Arrival at Frangokastello, right at the castle. Ciao Bella ! Mi
piace ! But I can’t imagine me standing here, on a ladder against
the wall, when the Venetians where throwing their burning asphalt from
the top ! I find Flisvos now and take my room, smiling at my Lybian Lady.
After a hot shower I go for a meal at taverna "Kali Kardia" (don’t
miss it when you are in Frangokastello). Just a perfect service. The
same in Flisvos apts.. Everybody working there, cleaning up for the coming
season, is very friendly and helpful. Only a few tourists here in Frangokastello,
and no barrel dogs to spot. It will be a quiet night again.