around Crete in 50 days - Day 34 from Elos (Kambos) to Sfinari
Burned calories 1413
Distance 29 km
Walking hours 05h15'
Pulse at arrival 76
Weather Very windy (strong north wind) Cold (average 12C) Cloudy all day with
sometimes a bit sunshine.
Woke up at 06.30 in a cold room (10,8C). Cold water,
no heating, no breakfast..no coffee and Elos was still sleeping..Prepared
myself, took some water from the Tiflos river, ate my energy bar and
started walking at 07.30
I arrived at 08.00 at Louhi and only see and
hear barrel dogs. It is still cold (7C) and windy. I am going westwards,
the sky looks better there...
08.20 passing Pervolia, a village down in
the valley. In the middle one very big, yellow painted house..At the
end of the village a very nice renovated house with big swimming pool.
08.35 Village of Kefali (Grafiko Chorio) and the junction
to Elafonissi / Chrissoskalitissa. I continue to the center of Kefali.
Here are rooms for rent (with hot water - it is
written). If had had known that....Some realy nice houses. The village
looks touristic (taverna's, rent rooms, one hotel!, souvenir shops etc..)
08.55 The village of Papadiana. Old. Suddenly an E4
sign..I am on the E4 track and did not know it..So far no indication...
Overlooking a big, green valley I continue and arrive at 09.30 in Simandiriana.
Here I count about
7 houses. Only one, I guess, is used as a summer house. New sign of E4
about 500m past the village.
09.45 There's the West Coast !
It is 10.05
and I am in Amigdalokefali. No sign of life..Wind is very strong here,
at a point of view and I was nearly pushed down by a strong "rafall".
Storm at sea, I think about 9 bft. Further down in the valley, one man,
coming back from hunting, with six dogs..all free and barking. They,
the man too, look well fed.
10.40 I am at Keramoti. Only a few older
people..One woman looks behind her window at the "strange" walker..I
smell the open fire. It is still cold (12C) and I wish I could sit
inside.. How will it be in the winter here ? Brrr... The view, however,
on the west coast is fantastic. Huge plain with only olive trees, just
at the seaside. Got the wind behind me and walking down hill much better
than in Keramoti, where I was litteraly fighting against and hanging
in the wind..!
11.45 I am in Kambos now and take some rest in Taverna "sun
Stelios' place, to drink my "elleniko sketto".
Debra (Cretan Journal) assures me again about my overnight in Sfinari.
Koukla mou ! From 'sun set' I have a fab view at the valley of Kambos.
Stelios offers me the coffee, and I offer him a raki. Yamas, filosmou.
Kali deinamei ! He owns some rent rooms !! In the village there are about
16 rooms for rent ! And they did not know that in Elos ? Well, you can
fool this one only once !
A German lady, living in Kambos, is cleaning
the kitchen and preparing it for the season...Stelios smiles..He is a
happy man ! I pay for the raki's and walk on around 12.30. "Den
It is not far to Sfinari, he says..Ta leme ! And have a good season
! Time for the tourists now...Kambos lives !
13.30 Fantastic view on
the mountain side.. Nice terraces, with olive trees and grapevines..
It is a pitty that this nice area is also used to dump rubbish...
The asphalth road winds down now and I am a bit protected by the mountains.
Terrible wind. A car lies down in the slope.. Missed the dangerous curve...
Brake traces and rubber on the road...
14.10 Crossing a small gorge with
fast streaming water. Again a sign with information about the area of
INNAHORIOU. Very good info !
14.20 Nearly a drama... A car with 4 young
men (no number plate) drove straight to me...I jumped away, but slipped
down the hill... At the last moment I could grab an oleander tree and
save myself from a 50m fall into the riverbed !! Mala...! Why ? Drugs,
alcohol...? Never saw them back...
14.30 Ano Sfinari. I talk to Manolis,
one of the five people living there. He saw this car too, but don't know
who they were.. Never seen before, he said.. He is working on his land
and taking care of his herds.. In his small house, he must be a happy
man.. Next to the house another E4 sign.. Manos thinks it is from the
electricity company.. I explain him why it is there... His dog is free
and playing with me.. That's the way I want it to see everywhere ! Bye
Manos, all the best !
15.00 arrival at Sfinari. People are shouting at
me, but I have to call Patricia, Debra's friend, for my overnight stay..
They keep shouting.... Don't understand it.
As they sit in front of a taverna, I think they want me to eat something..
Patricia tells me to wait...in the taverna where the shouting people
are.... She told them before to look out for me and they did !
While waiting I chatted a bit with them and had a beer.
Stella made some salad and potatoes (Patricia ordered this for me. While
eating and looking outside, a big rock fell down the hill (on top of
it were some roadworks) just next to a car.. Nobody seems to care. .Life
goes on.. At the taverna they complain.. Tourists spend only little money
and go for picknick on the beach.. .It's a hard time...
16.20 We drive
to Patricia's house and I take my room.. Nice renovated house, completely
my style.. I feel good. A hot shower is very welcome..I enjoy the open
fire and the salmon with "chorta"
which I get for dinner... A glass of excellent white wine and an interesting
conversation, are the perfect ingredients, together with a small lemon
liqeur (home made !), to pass a quiet night, knowing that Patricia arranged
two more overnights for the next days!
Thanks, Pat, it was unforgettable in your lovely
and cosy house !