around Crete in 50 days:
Day 41 from Kalives to Georgioupolis and Filaki
Burned calories 1449
Distance 30 km
Walking time 05h 23'
Pulse at arrival 90
Weather Extremely hot (average 27C), with peaks to 31C. At the
end of the walk heavy south wind
Woke up in Kalami at 06.00. Breakfast (bread, coffee
and fetta). The sea was calm and the weather looking good.. Carolina
ordered a taxi to bring me from Kalami to Kalives, from where I should
start the walk to Filaki...
07.45 Dimitris (taxi driver) arrived
at the Kalami village and drove me to Kalives. Thanks Pure Crete ! Starting
at Kalives, Sunday, and already lots of movement, it is 19C. Singing
priests and ringing bells, tell me there is celebration everywhere. The
road is climbing, but with the fantastic view on the snowy White Mountains,
I don't even feel it ! Majestic morning !
08.35 The village of Tsivaras.. Small,
nobody to see.. quiet little place.
09.40 Arrival at the center of
Vamos and 26,9 C ! No wind, man, it's hot ! Drinking my "elleniko sketto" in a
local cafenion (all are very busy), while resting a bit. Only men
in the cafenions.. Many field tractors.. lots of farming here.. And
real estate ! I spot some very nice renovated houses and everywhere
(on a Sunday !) people are building.. In the cafenions I hear discussions
about politics, family, business etc...as well as the local "gossip".
I was thinking, this morning, that the old road to Rethymnon
would be quiet, well it was wrong ! It is a hell of a road, with fast
traffic.. Leaving the cafenion, two young women, dressed in black, sat
down and ordered coffee.. Business talk.. All men were looking.... The
climb to the top of the village is very steep.. Lots of old and not maintained
monuments remind the
Turkish occupation, from which the village suffered so much..
Taking the junction towards Chora Sfakia..and I am attacked by a
shepherd dog.. Free, and immediately jumping on me.. trying to bite..
In a reflexion I punch him on the nose and he leaves me alone.. Lucky
that I had my backpack (extra 22kg of weight), if not I would be knocked
on the ground.. Powerful animal.. but I am strong too...! Very curious
I saw nobody in or around the house. Asking the neighbors, they did not
bother and said.. "kathe
mera to idio".. (Everyday the same..). I hope that no children
are passing today.. I am not wounded, only a few scratches...
but very surprised.
Going downhill towards Georgiopouli (on the
road to Chora Sfakia - nothing else is indicated !) it is much
more quiet.. Less traffic and easy walking.. Everywhere barking
11.20 I am in Kalamitsi Alexandrou after another
steep (45') climb. 29C ! Small village and apart from a rooster
and three men, playing "backgammon" at
the local "plateia" I see nobody.
Kalamitsi Amigdali. Georgiopouli is almost at my fingertips..
Arrival at Georgiopouli and Guido, my friend and business partner,
is waiting.. We have a "meeting at the bridge".. He joins me
to the Kounas Lake.. Some small "meze", I change clothes and
shoes ( from today I walk again with my "trezetta's").
Guido returns home and I leave this beautiful area for Filaki.
Lots of wind (south) at the Kournas Lake. The meze was good,
but a bit expensive...
15.15 Arrival at the Kounas village. A
mix of old ruins, nice renovated old cretan houses and newly
built (concrete) appartments. Life is easy here, I remark. Smelling
the grilled meat, while walking through the old streets. Everywhere
locals have their sunday "parea",
sometimes joined by exited tourists. The Kounas village is known
for its old , 14th century, church (old frescoe's inside), Agia
Irini. The church is most of the time closed...
15.50 I am in
Kastelos and turn to Filaki, calling Pat and Liz, where I will
stay for the night.
15.30 I am in Filaki and welcomed, first
by Pat and afterwards by Liz (cooking).. Nice glass of wine and
they show me my room, view on the valley.. Excellent ! Pat and
Liz live just in front of the old Turkish Jail (filaki), owned
by my Belgian friends Agapi and Eric. The last ones are looking
to renovate the place (huge buildings)... Would be very nice..
We had a "vegi" meal
together (perfec cooking, Liz !) and after a nice conversation
I went to bed (bit tired..).
Two wonderful women, with a clear
look on their "Cretan" future.
All the best, Liz and Pat ! Thank you for the
superb hosting !