Walk around Crete in 50 days - Day 43 from Episkopi
of steps 33816
Burned calories 1258
Distance 26 km
Walking time 04h 40'
Pulse at arrival 88
Weather: Cloudy in the morning, hot in the afternoon. No wind Average 23C
Woke up at 07.00. Breakfast (yogurt with honey, orange
and coffee) and left Episkopi (Calamon apts) at 08.00. It is still quiet
and the village is slowly waking up, laying peaceful at the hillside,
in dark and mysterious clouds. 19C and it does not look very sunny...but,
it is still early.
I am walking on the dirt road towards the center from
where I will join the old "Rethymnon road". Lots of barking
barrel dogs, competing with hundreds of birds in all kind of varieties.
Green and yellow clover, all over.. Slowly, slowly now and enjoying
this wonderful present !
08.45 Passing the center of Episkopi.. Lots
of activity here.. Men are drinking their "frappe" or "Freddo" in
the local cafenion. Others get ready to go to work. All shops are
09.30 Passing the village of Koufi, on top of me and
a bit hidden behind the hill. Very quiet, 22C, no wind and perfect for
walking, so far..
09.55 I meet Yannis, a shepherd. He does not
believe that I am walking around Crete in 50 days.."Me ta podia..hahahaha
!" he says.
"And why do you have black trousers (my gore-tex leightweight) and
no black shirt ?" Well, Yannis, that's because of the sun..
Black attracts the heat, you see..."hahaha, kalo taxidi" he
laughed my answer away... Yeia, Yannis, ke tale me ! An amazing
man, looking back at me, to be sure it was not a "fata morgana" !
Leaving the Municipality of Lapeon now, where in the
early Byzanthine period more than 100.000 people have lived. The area
51 km2 big and together with Episkopi, Argyropolis is the most
interesting village, with its many wells, fountains and waterfalls.
Passing the junction towards the Monastery of Profitis
Ilias now (10.20) and spot at least 15 barrel dogs on a plain. All
chained up on old rusty cars or trees... None of them have water...
Nobody around to ask.
11.10 I am at Agias Matsi, only one house (cafenion)
and some ruins. I decide to rest a bit and take a coke (the refreshment)
and an energy bar.. I am still on the old road to Rethymnon which
goes up and down but leads me to one of the most beautiful green
area I saw so far on the North of Crete.. A paradise for birds
and animals.. and for me ! Realy heaven, and no traffic.. Hundreds
of lizzards crossed my way. Everywhere oregano, vaskomilo (sage),
wild mint and cister rose, name it..!
11.30 Ano and Kato Varsamonero.
I am walking in the middle of both, small villages. Some activity,
mostly farming, as well as in Agios Andreas, the next one, where
the owner of a petrol station is sleeping on a chair.. A client
gets realy nervous..
11.50 Village of Gonia, small and some industry... I
spot many big, white plastic bags, nothing written on them.
Leaving Prines, a large village with lots of movement and entering
Atsipopoulo. More traffic now, and I spot the Aegean Sea. Close
to Rethymnon... Here I see an internet cafe and ask if I can use
a computer. A friendly young woman (a real beauty !), shows me
one of them, but an arrogant man (the owner ?) says they are
not ready.. The woman asks me to come back in one hour.. Thank
you, darling, next time I will fly over your village...
I am in Violi Haraki and seeing the "Fortezza" below
me, some 4 km away..
13.30 Walking into Rethymnon, after 2 km of "horror" road,
because of the road works (huge new bridge)... No fun..!
I am at the "Fortezza" (Venetian
Castle) and walking into the old city, looking for "Olga's
to find my overnight place, generously sponsored by Albert
from Kalypso Diving Center together with Stella and Jorgos,
owners of Olga's House. As I find it at 15.00 I get a very warm
welcome with food and a "Mythos". Jorgos shows me my room, in
the middle of the old city... I spot already many tourists.. Season has started
here.. Albert joins me one hour later and we make appointment to eat some "meze" this
I passed so many times outside of "Olga's House", but
I had never the time to stop (guiding tourists)... Coming back
here, that's for sure !
19.30 now and I am going to explore the
old city again... Albert is waiting around 20.30... Tomorrow Perama,
no problem, I will have a quiet night in "Veneitia" !