Walk around Crete in 50 days - Day 29 from Loutro to
Burned calories 1209
Distance 21,2 km
Pulse at arrival 92
Weather Very hot Temperature peak 33C !
Woke up at 06.30. Bit cloudy, but still early.. Loutro
is resting. From my balcony I see some sheep coming slowly downhill,
to look for food. Lots of birds have their morning serenade. Nice to
wake up like this..
07.30 Breakfast. Nikos served me toasted bread, marmelade,
home made honey and a strong filter coffee. The view on Loutro bay, just
at the harborside, at Kri Kri is unforgettable. It is 20C and promising.
I leave a perfect host in a small paradise to look for my friends, somewhere
on the road to Roumeli. It is 08.15 and there is already lots of movement
in the "Blue and White" village.
08.45 Arrival at Phoenix,
after I rest a few moments at the ruins of the Venetian Castle, just
at the top of Loutro. Weater is still cloudy but 21C. Following the E4
track I spot the village of Livaniana, high in the mountains and frequently
passed by the Aradaina gorge walkers, seaking some rest in taverna "Livaniana" over
09.10 Arrival at the beach, passed Phoenix (shepherd
beach, I call it) and finding Alan and Andy. No barrel dogs to spot.
So it was the case in Loutro.. Dogs are free running and friendly. We
climb up the path along the cliff and arrive at 09.50 at Marmara Beach
where I met Christos, getting ready for the season.. He runs the small
taverna with some rooms at this idyllic place.
Me "elleniko sketto", the others "nes cafe ". A small
raki for extra energy, and off we go towards Agia Roumeli, leaving
the Aradaina Gorge behind us. Christos' father is living
there all winter, but now, until the end of the summer, he is with his
herds in the mountains. He always welcomes us when we walk the gorge
in November. Nice place to live.. thinking about it, while staring the
last time at the eroded rocks, fighting again and again my (this time)
noisy Lybian Lady.
10.30 climbing up to the top of the hill for about
the E4. Sun is peeping and 25C now.. Lots of lizards and the first flowering "dracunculus
vulgaris". Everywhere on the
E4 path the signs are broken off.. Who does this and why ? The boat
from Sfakia to Loutro and Agia Roumeli is passing (11.15) and we spot
Barbatus", Bearded vultures, on the mountain tops, slowly climbing
higher into the blue sky.
12.20 First glimpse of Agia Roumeli. The path leads
us in between a pine (pinus brutus) forest. Enjoy the aroma while reading
At 13.00 there is another path, crossing ours, towards
the church of Agios Joannis, high in the mountains.
13.20 We spot Agios
Pavlos. The small church on the beach, built after St. Paul landed here
on the Island of Crete, on his way to being crucified in Rome because
he was preaching the gospels.. We arrive at the church at 13.30 and enjoy
very much the place. The taverna St. Paul is closed and behind it we
find the path to continue. It is hot (30C). "Azur" blue water, green
pine trees, white waves, trying to push the rocks away and a clear blue
sky.. Need more ? Man, did I make nice pictures today !
14.30 We leave
the pine forest and cross a 500m long beach. I am running out of water
and it is now 33C ! Walking next to my Lybian Lady and give her a kiss.
15.30 Arrival at Agia Roumeli. Lots of water in the "Samaria" river..
We have to cross it on a ladder, placed over the fast streaming "potamos".
In Roumeli we are welcomed by everybody and sit down at taverna "Farrangi",
the Gorge. The all time friendly owner, Nektarios, offers us a drink.
Always very professional and helpful, this perfect hosts deserves your
visit, while in Roumeli! We will spend the night at "Gigilos",
Yannis' place. Same type, friendly, perfect service as well.. Worth to
pass after having walked the Gorge ! Yannis offers us the overnight stay
and the evening meal.. All for free. Thanks, my friend ! See you back
soon ! We go to bed early, as tomorrow will be one of the most difficult
walks of my 50 days !