Walk around Crete in 50 days – Day 29 from Loutro to Agia Roumeli
Burned calories 1209
Distance 21,2 km
Pulse at arrival 92
Weather Very hot Temperature peak 33C !
Woke up at 06.30. Bit cloudy, but still early.. Loutro is resting. From my balcony I see some sheep coming slowly downhill, to look for food. Lots of birds have their morning serenade. Nice to wake up like this..
07.30 Breakfast. Nikos served me toasted bread, marmelade, home made honey and a strong filter coffee. The view on Loutro bay, just at the harborside, at Kri Kri is unforgettable. It is 20C and promising. I leave a perfect host in a small paradise to look for my friends, somewhere on the road to Roumeli. It is 08.15 and there is already lots of movement in the “Blue and White” village.
08.45 Arrival at Phoenix, after I rest a few moments at the ruins of the Venetian Castle, just at the top of Loutro. Weater is still cloudy but 21C. Following the E4 track I spot the village of Livaniana, high in the mountains and frequently passed by the Aradaina gorge walkers, seaking some rest in taverna “Livaniana” over there.
09.10 Arrival at the beach, passed Phoenix (shepherd beach, I call it) and finding Alan and Andy. No barrel dogs to spot. So it was the case in Loutro.. Dogs are free running and friendly. We climb up the path along the cliff and arrive at 09.50 at Marmara Beach where I met Christos, getting ready for the season..
He runs the small taverna with some rooms at this idyllic place. Me “elliniko sketo” (Greek coffee), the others “nes cafe “. A small raki for extra energy, and off we go towards Agia Roumeli, leaving the Aradaina Gorge behind us. Christos’ father is living there all winter, but now, until the end of the summer, he is with his herds in the mountains. He always welcomes us when we walk the gorge in November. Nice place to live.. thinking about it, while staring the last time at the eroded rocks, fighting again and again my (this time) noisy Lybian Lady.
10.30 climbing up to the top of the hill for about 20’, following the E4. Sun is peeping and 25C now.. Lots of lizards and the first flowering “dracunculus vulgaris”. Everywhere on the
E4 path the signs are broken off.. Who does this and why ? The boat from Sfakia to Loutro and Agia Roumeli is passing (11.15) and we spot some “Gypaetus Barbatus”, Bearded vultures, on the mountain tops, slowly climbing higher into the blue sky.
12.20 First glimpse of Agia Roumeli. The path leads us in between a pine (pinus brutus) forest. Enjoy the aroma while reading this !
At 13.00 there is another path, crossing ours, towards the church of Agios Joannis, high in the mountains.
13.20 We spot Agios Pavlos. The small church on the beach, built after St. Paul landed here on the Island of Crete, on his way to being crucified in Rome because he was preaching the gospels.. We arrive at the church at 13.30 and enjoy very much the place. The taverna St. Paul is closed and behind it we find the path to continue. It is hot (30C). “Azur” blue water, green pine trees, white waves, trying to push the rocks away and a clear blue sky.. Need more ? Man, did I make nice pictures today !
14.30 We leave the pine forest and cross a 500m long beach. I am running out of water and it is now 33C ! Walking next to my Lybian Lady and give her a kiss.
15.30 Arrival at Agia Roumeli. Lots of water in the “Samaria” river.. We have to cross it on a ladder, placed over the fast streaming “potamos”. In Roumeli we are welcomed by everybody and sit down at taverna “Farrangi”, the Gorge. The all time friendly owner, Nektarios, offers us a drink. Always very professional and helpful, this perfect hosts deserves your visit, while in Roumeli! We will spend the night at “Gigilos”, Yannis’ place. Same type, friendly, perfect service as well.. Worth to pass after having walked the Gorge ! Yannis offers us the overnight stay and the evening meal.. All for free. Thanks, my friend ! See you back soon ! We go to bed early, as tomorrow will be one of the most difficult walks of my 50 days !
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