Walk around Crete in 50 days – Day 15 from Arvi to Tsoutsouros
Number of steps 33158
Distance 25,2 km
Walking hours 3h 49min
Burned calories 1029
Weather: sunny, warm, average 24C
Pulses at arrival: 78
Woke up at 07.30 Splendid weather 21C. Little wind, clear sky. I had an elleniko sketto – diplo, some cake that Christina brought me yesterday, an orange and left Kolimbi at 09.20 for a long walk mostly following the dirt road, circling around the mountains. Lots of greenhouses again and some very small cottages. A pick-up is passing me and the driver asks me:
“Pou pas?” (where do you go?)
“Tsoutsouros”, I say.
“Ela mesa makria eine” (come in, it is far away)
I said that I was walking around Crete on foot.
“Panagia mou, mono me ta podia ?” (Virgin Mary! On foot?) he said.
“Efcharisto poli, kalo taxidi”, (thanks a lot, have a nice trip) I said to the friendly man. He drove on and looked back several times…. Climbing again, through the fields. It is now a matter of NOT following the logic direction and continue on the dirt road… Many junctions, no indication. Lots of birds, different aromas some rivers to cross.
10.20 I pass the field chapel of Profitis Elias. Hundreds of sheep running down the hillside, looking for fresh greens. A shepherd indicates me the junction to Tsoutsouros. In a few minutes, the sheep were on the top of the other hill.. I am jealous, but they have four legs and no 18 kg heavy packpack ! In the rocks I discover natural bee nests ! Don’t go too close !
10.45 the dirt road goes into asphalt and the Lybian Sea is there again.Talking about a room with a view, well, here are some nice houses !!
10.55 Arriving at the junction Ano Viannos – Keratokambos. Going down now to the coastline, direction Keratokambos for 6 km. The panorama takes my breath away.
11.00 Overlooking a valley with only olive trees, the village apears while I am stopping at a huge cactus plant and have a fresh figue !
11.40 I am at the beach and take a rest for 30 min.
12.40 The village of Kastri, a small center with only a few houses. Almost everything is closed. I have to stop again, because of a painful left foot. Kind of an inflammation I think. I take one voltaren..don’t know how I got this pain. No doctor in the area and still a long way to go. It is warm and a little windy. Hope my foot will last…
12.50 now and the sun is burning my neck (28C) and I am walking along the beachline, wishing I could stay and camp !
13.40 passing a residential area, Only big villas, all brand new. Class A! The area is called Kamboula. A bit further the local houses. Passing the bridge of Kamboula I hear only the noise of the large, but undeep waterfall… Cristal clear water searches its way to the sea.
14.20 Crossing a nice gorge, just passing the point where many jeep safaris have their daily barbeque in the summer season. The gorge is full of rubbish electric stoves, plastic, glass, refrigerators etc.. real pitty.
14.30 Tsoutsouros is in front of me, down and laying in a small bay, huge mountains behind it
14.55 Arrival at the village and I rent a room in the Sarakina complex. It is the only place open.. 20 Euro is not bad for one night. I order omeletta me patates and 1/2 l of “mavro” krasi, the local wine. On the open fire a giant crab and very big lobster, serving as decoration. In an old Helmann’s mayonaise pot a couple of Barlia orchids. Nikos ,the lord of the house, is smoking Marlboro qnd drinking whisky while watching “Ehei Gousto” on television. His wife is cleaning volvous and horta (greens). It is a lovely meal.
My foot is ok, but I still feel the pain.. A quiet night is waiting at a very peaceful beachside.
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